For overlay doors, which cover the cabinet frame, adjust the hinges so that the doors hang straight. For an inset door, adjust the hinges so door is flush with the face frame and so there's an even reveal gap around its perimeter. Using 1-inch brads, fasten the toekick trim to the base cabinets.
Fit the longest pieces first, then cut and install the shorter pieces. Close any gaps between the floor and trim by scribing, or cover them by brad-nailing a shoe molding to the floor. Recess the nail heads with a nail set and cover them with wood putty or color-matched wax stick. If there's crown molding to trim out the upper cabinets, miter the joints at outside corners; cope the joints at inside corners. Align the molding's bottom edge with a level layout line marked above the tops of the doors.
Fasten the molding to the cabinet with 1- to 2-inch finish nails. Glue the molding's end joints. Recess the nailheads with a nail set and cover them with wood putty or color-matched wax stick. Cookie banner We use cookies and other tracking technologies to improve your browsing experience on our site, show personalized content and targeted ads, analyze site traffic, and understand where our audiences come from.
By choosing I Accept , you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. How to Hang Kitchen Cabinets. By Tim Snyder. Pinterest Email Pocket Flipboard. Make sure cap is not glued to drain pipe. Step 2 Mark the Reference Line Photo by David Carmack Using a level, mark a level reference line on the walls about 48 inches off the floor.
Step 3 Mark the High Point Layout Line Photo by David Carmack Directly beneath the mark for the high point, mark the height of your base cabinets, usually 34 inches above the floor. Step 4 Join the Upper Cabinets Photo by David Carmack Remove doors, drawers, and movable shelves to make the cabinets lighter and easier to position.
Step 5 Hang the Upper Cabinets Photo by David Carmack With one or two helpers, lift the upper cabinet assembly into the corner and rest it on the cleat. In that case, use small washers on the screws. That way, you create more surface area for the fastener. Alternatively, use truss-head screws.
The truss head works like a washer. Also, to better hide these fasteners, put them just above a shelf. This makes them less visible when viewed from below.
Inspect your cabinets and assess the number of fasteners needed. How about the locations of fasteners?
Minimally, use 4 fasteners in strong locations in each cabinet. To be safe, add more. Cabinet fasteners must penetrate into structural wood in the wall to be genuinely secure. First, confirm your stud locations. Next, drill a hole in the rail or cabinet back so the fastener hits a stud. Additionally, these screws can be purchased with a brown coating. That allows them to blend in with cabinet tones! Drive the the screw until the head is just flush with the face of the rail.
Add additional fasteners anywhere that a cabinet seems under-supported. If you have any questions, or if you have a suggestion for a subject of a future blogpost, please go to our Contact page. Another situation that will work is that if you can sink a few screws into the studs in a soffit and then use drywall anchors for the back wall where there are no studs. What is the best screw for installing cabinets to concrete walls?
Tapcons by far are the choice of most kitchen installers. In many instances, where the walls are concrete, you will discover there are wood furring strips to screw into. If you are anchoring an island base cabinet to the floor, you can use either Tapcons or a Redhead anchor.
DO NOT take a chance with this sort of situation. Common sense my friend tells us that drywall alone will not hold a cabinet in place. The other things is that when a screw strips out it has no holding power either. If you encounter one of these situations where you are getting frustrated with trying to install a fastener and things are not working, take a break and come back with a renewed attitude. You must do your best to secure the cabinets correctly. After all, what good would it be to have the best screws for installing cabinets and then not install them properly?
There are many different cabinet types and materials, and there isn't one size or type of screw that will work with all of them. It wasn't that long ago that many carpenters went merrily about their business, putting in cabinets with nothing more than drywall screws.
These aren't designed for wood-to-wood fastening, especially for heavy, concentrated loads produced by a cabinetful of dishes and glassware. If someone has told you to use drywall screws, disregard that advice. Also, given that they are recycled cabinets, I wouldn't advise using the screw holes from the previous installation. You don't want to drive a screw into an existing hole and hit a snapped-off fastener lurking there, or find that the original installation was sloppy and using those holes pulls the cabinet face frames out of line.
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